Keeping the kurung as it is

Kuala Lumpur - This year, Raya has been all about the baju kurung. Not that the kurung ever went out of style, but every year (recently anyway), there seems to have been a different baju Raya trend.

The traditional kurung, a loose fitting long-sleeved tunic top worn with a sarong, has certainly seen its fair share of transformations. The fashion of the moment dictates its neckline, the length and breadth of the sleeves, hemlines and also if the sarong should have pleats, side slits, back slits or no slits at all.

There are actually two predominant styles: The modern kurung, plain or with patterned/printed/floral material that has either “normal’’ or bell sleeves; or the transparent chiffon kaftan-style kurung, an accepted version of the traditional garment that is so loved by Malay women.

I actually like this look as it can be paired with beautiful silk batik materials and you can’t go wrong in this combination. But this year, one of these kaftan mutations looked particularly hideous (well at least to me) as the top swirled down almost to the ankles, and was so loose fitting that most women who wore it looked as if they needed to go on a diet. Whatever happened to proportion and cut?

This is why the traditional kurung and kebaya always come out winners – women just look angelic in them. The kebaya can sometimes be a just a little over-the-top because it does make heads turn, so the kurung is always the outfit of choice be it for the first day of Raya or simply if you want something demure for visiting relatives, going to the mosque, tahlils or attending funerals.

It’s simple, flattering, elegant and above all, always tasteful. That’s provided you wear it in its original form or in a modern variation where it still looks like how it’s supposed to.

There are designers who, in the run-up to Raya, take special delight in seeing how many different ways they can transform the kurung so that it doesn’t look like one anymore. While I applaud their creativity (some of the designs are actually beautiful) there are some that leave you wondering why any woman would want to look like an upside down mushroom or not be able to sit down properly because the top or sarong is too poufed and pleated.

I’m sure most of us have experienced the trailing sleeves effect, where try as you might, there is no way you can lean over to spoon some rendang or kuah kacang onto your plate without dipping your sleeves in the dish.

The question is, where do you draw the line at what constitutes a baju kurung? Why does the kurung have to evolve into something unrecognisable – after all, the sari still looks like a sari and so does the cheongsam. Surely a kurung that is not a kurung should not even be called one, right?
While I’m a traditionalist in a sense, I do wear the modern kurung with embellishments, trailing sleeves and variations of sarongs. But on the other hand, I don’t like the kurung being “un-kurunged” so to speak. A baju kurung should look enough like one so that people know exactly what it is you’re wearing. If it doesn’t look like a baju kurung, then darlings, don’t call it what it isn’t.

You’re not being clever, modern or creative when you pass off a gown or dress as an imitation of the beautiful, elegant and already more than perfect traditional garment. So let’s get back to basics, shall we? If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it.

Source: thestar.com.my (22 Oktober 2007)
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