In the Red Riding Hood book of travel, a destination that is wild, isolated and oozing with natural habitats is all the better through which to hike, climb or kayak. Indeed, finding remote places to explore is part of the quest of the adventure traveller. And in Borneo that quest culminates at Long Pasia.
Nestled at the headwaters of the Padas River in southwest Sabah, Long Pasia and its twin village Long Mio are only accessible via a logging road, and until a satellite phone was installed last year no modern form of communication existed there. With that isolation comes magnificent landscapes, some of Borneo`s oldest forests and one of the state`s richest plant diversity sites with more than 700 species of orchids recorded so far.
The area known as Ulu Padas is steep and hilly (70 percent rests above 1,200m), but the variety of soils at differing altitudes has birthed a range of vegetation - 11 identified forest types to be precise, from riverine forest to dipterocarp to ancient mossy Agathis, a tropical pine whose sturdy wood is highly valued in the construction of homes and furniture.
That rich biodiversity is now under threat from logging and traditional agricultural practices that are often non-sustainable, such as slash and burn cultivation. Recognising the need for conservation, the Sabah state government and World Wide Fund for Nature (WWF) Malaysia are pushing education and research initiatives that focus on understanding the region`s unique plant diversity and distribution, while a homestay and tourism programme serves as an alternative income generator for local villages.
At the heart of Ulu Padas is Long Pasia, and the Matang and Pa Sia rivers are the arteries that feed it. The Matang`s waters run northeast all the way from the Kalimantan border, passing beneath lime-coloured leaves that fan out to create a canopy. Soft mosses drip off gnarled trees and thick, forest undergrowth hugs the riverbanks` muddy shores where headhunters once feasted.
Ulu Padas is home to the Lundayeh, a small Christian ethnic group that still relies on the surrounding environment for food, medicine and construction materials. The Lundayeh harvest bamboo shoots, mushrooms, ferns and other edible plants from the nearby forest, but their traditional economy is supported by hill rice, the cultivation of which depends on slash-and-burn farming.
Since the introduction of homestay in 2001, tourist dollars have allowed the Lundayeh to rely less on the surrounding forest, helping preserve the area`s traditional plant resources. Backed by WWF, the tourism programme is now in the hands of the villagers, and local guides run two- to three-day forest treks.
Trekking Ulu Padas provides access to some of the best natural environment in Borneo, and the number of areas that remain unexplored are a prime draw for those in search of adventure. Trekkers witness ancient relics, a fossilised crocodile and historical artifacts, such as Chinese burial jars. They can also hike to Bukit Rimau, which at 2,025 metres provides commanding views of the region.
The six-hour hike can be demanding, taking trekkers through terrain that culminates in montane forest where harsh conditions harbour small, wrinkled trees and pitcher plants that feed on insects lured into their deadly chambers. A nearby highland lake was only recently discovered, the surrounding legend being it was until then "hidden". Trekkers can camp for the night atop Bukit Rimau before venturing onto Maga Fall and a natural orchid garden set amid heath forest known locally as kerangas. High rock walls near the waterfall beg to be climbed and river pools formed by boulders make refreshing natural spas.
This is still uncharted wilderness, however, and travellers should be open to the unexpected. Lait, the head guide, has taken several language courses, and he and his colleagues will be there to lead the way - some are known to have carried weary travellers down the mountain. Still, visitors should possess good fitness and remember to uphold local customs.
The hospitable Lundayeh are used to opening their homes to visitors, but Long Pasia still sees few tourists because of its remote location. That isolation has fostered a rich culture and traditions that the Lundayeh uphold, one that stretches to Kalimantan and Sarawak, where they maintain close contact with their relatives through traditional kinship networks.
"The Lundayeh are a proud people," says Claus Topp, who works with local guides to set up visits to the area. "This is one of the only places in Sabah where you can see the cultural heritage in the form of relics in the environment and hear stories of how life was long ago."
Despite their reverence for the past, the Lundayeh are not cut off from the world outside their villages. Long Pasia, which once relied on solar power, now has satellite television, and the younger generation often finds itself straddling modernity and tradition.
Take football for example. During their National Day in September the young men from the village walk across the border to neighbouring Kalimantan to participate in the biggest game of the year, Sabah versus Indonesia. When the game is finished, they walk back. People from Sarawak also participate, and despite the rigours of the journey, the three-day walk is a tradition they refuse to relinquish.
The Lundayeh are a resourceful people and it`s a trait they welcome in visitors: given the homestay programme`s infancy, travellers can create their own itinerary. Those who like to travel like the scouts can opt to trek along the Matang rather than go by wooden boat. They can stake out their own campsite and settle in for as long as they like. When they`re ready to return they can source local resources to build a bamboo raft, which they can navigate back to Long Pasia.
Moments here smack of Apocalypse Now - one can almost imagine the shores of the Matang spotted with headhunters dancing round their treasures. But there is also a romance to this wilderness - everything seems bigger, bolder and in more abundance. By plunging in to this backwater visitors embark on an adventure that is all theirs to uncover.
Source: www.bangkokpost.com (10 Mei 2007)
