Bangkok - Suphan Buri`s century-old riverside markets convey an ambience that is unique in that even today you can bask in the warm afterglow of their rich and once thriving past, as I discovered on a visit there recently.
Visiting Sam Chuk and Kao Hong, both located by the bank of the Tha Chin River, turned out to be a memorable trip down the memory lane, although the latter is rarely mentioned in travel brochures.
Kao Hong market in Bang Pla Ma district of the province prospered during the 1930s when it was a major trade hub with boats routinely calling port. The market attracted nearby villagers who arrived in boats to sell their farm produce. Those were the days when the river was the main mode of transportation.
However, the construction of roads spelled an end to river traffic and the Tha Chin gradually lost its prominence, as did Kao Hong as a hub for trading goods.
Today Kao Hong is a shadow of its past, devoid of crowds and bearing little resemblance to its glory days. Its most striking connection to more prosperous times are rows of traditional wooden houses and their unique architecture that have been featured in many local films and TV commercials.
Kao Hong retains most of its original architecture. A remarkable evidence of its prosperity in the old days is a four-storey watch tower, standing in the heart of the market. The tower was built in 1934, with several peep holes to keep an eye on attacking bandits.
This enchanting market warrants more than a glance. Neighbourliness presented through cordial welcome and genial smiles of the local people gave us an indelible impression of community spirit which has never died with the passing of time.
A combination of geography, history and strong community spirit have shaped the distinctive identity of Kao Hong. At present, a group of residents determined to preserve their ancestral roots have formed a committee with the hope of revitalising and promoting Kao Hong as a destination for conservation tourism.
"We want to bring this market and the community back to life while sticking to our old values and the traditional lifestyle. But we still cannot tell how it is going to change our community.
"It seems to us that most tourists just head straight for Sam Chuk when visiting Suphan Buri," said a senior committee member who has lived in Kao Hong since boats were still the basic mode of transportation.
Those words became more apparent as I visited Sam Chuk, a very bustling market by comparison.
Sitting next to the district office, Sam Chuk market was packed with hundreds of buyers and vendors selling local wares. Shops competed to win attention of buyers. The atmosphere here was certainly more vibrant. Passing row after row of stalls selling traditional food and Thai sweets, visitors were bombarded with all sorts of sights, sounds and tastes.
Besides tasty food, there were traditional coffee houses, antique clock shops and a vintage studio where you could pose for pictures - black and white - dressed in period costumes.
The highlight of Sam Chuk is the 90-year-old residence of Khun Jamnong Jeenarak, the first tax collector of the district.
The wooden house, completed with its original features such as balconies and carved eaves, was renovated and turned into a museum.
An exhibition of maps, photographs, antiques and furniture inside the building encapsulates the history of Sam Chuk and places of interest there.
Sam Chuk, too, was a riverside hub until the advent of public highways. The market was in a state of decay until it was revived by a committee set up by local residents in 2002 that has succeeded in breathing new life into the market. It is now high on the itinerary of Bangkokians visiting Suphan Buri.
Although concrete structures can be spotted here and there, most of the wooden architecture in the market area has been well maintained.
Our sojourn to Suphan Buri was an enjoyable step back into its rich history. Kao Hong and Sam Chuk may seem similar, but if you scratch the surface you will understand that each has its own story to tell.
Sam Chuk has now transformed itself into a brisk and dynamic tourist attraction, whereas Kao Hong portrays the genuine old-world charm and the simple way of life that are increasingly rare to find in a world driven by profits.
But both markets are good examples of how local people can contribute to preserving the identity of communities they live in. The fact that change is inevitable, and modernisation is slowly gaining a foothold there puts the locals in a dilemma.
It remains to be seen if the collective efforts of local residents will be able to withstand the test of time.
Source: www.bangkokpost.com (11 Maret 2008)
