Jakarta - I once was invited to Balikpapan by a friend who wanted me to taste the regional foods of East Kalimantan. The capital of the province and an important oil harbor, Balikpapan is a busy place. The second longest river in Kalimantan, the Mahakam, runs through it and on to many important areas in the region.
East Kalimantan is important historically because by the fourth century, during the reign of King Mulawarman over Kutai, the oldest Hindu Kingdom there, Malay, Chinese and Middle Eastern traders were dropping anchor and had important trading activities with the people in the inland. The kingdom of Kutai and its mighty kings are long gone, but the fame and grandeur of the Mahakam River stayed and other things attracted people to its shores, changing many typical customs and traditions.
One of the interesting things along the River Mahakam is the local food, primarily fish caught at the river and unique local ingredients like the souring agent terong asam (sour eggplant) which grows wild only on East Kalimantan.
There are two famous fish found in the Makaham‘s waters, renowned for their juicy meat and succulent flavor. The ikan patin, a fat and meaty fish with little thorns, is covered by a whitish skin and has meat with a compact consistency. While some decades ago the ikan patin was only available in its natural habitat, it is now cultivated and available anywhere, in traditional markets and supermarkets. In East Kalimantan the ikan patin is usually prepared spiced with shallots and garlic, salt and herbs, wrapped in banana leaves and then steamed or grilled, like the Sundanese of West Java do when they prepare their dish called pepes.
Next to the ikan patin, there is the ikan baong an adventurous fish that can also found in Muangthai and the Philipines. In Indonesia, the baong can be found in Sumatra, where it goes under the name of beringit or garingan, while in Java it is known as ririg and in the Sunda Highlands, sigaringan.
But the ikan baong is known first and foremost as an East Kalimantan fish from Kutai. As a result of the industrialization of the area, the fish is losing its native habitat of the river and waterways. Fresh ikan baong is now rare in traditional markets, although it is possible to find it dried or smoke. It is a dark, black fish around 35 cm long, and is prepared in a manner similar to eel and catfish.
The locals boil the fish and shred the meat, which is then stir-fried until it is dry, like the Javanese cook abon ikan. The difference is in the spices. In East Kalimantan, coarsely pounded chili is added to the meat.
Also be found along the Mahakam are bananas, the most common of which is the pisang sanggar, known as pisang kepok in Java and Sumatra. Like its cousins in Java and Sumatra, it can‘t be eaten raw and instead is fried, boiled or steamed as a common snack.
RECIPES
1. PAIS IKAN PATIN
Wrapped, steamed fish East Kalimantan style
INGREDIENTS:
1 kg ikan patin, cleaned, cut finely
4 shallots, 40 g
3 cloves of garlic, 15 g
3 roasted kemiri nuts (candle nuts)
A slice of fresh turmeric, pounded, 5 g
1 tsp salt or to taste
1 tsp ground pepper or to taste
6 red chilies, seeds discarded, finely sliced
3 red tomatoes, finely sliced, 300 g
3 belimbing sayur (sour fruits), finely cut
Banana leaves, for wrapping
METHOD:
1. Make a paste of shallots, garlic, kemiri nuts, turmeric, salt and ground pepper.
2. Add fish to the paste and mix.
3. Take a banana leaf of 15 x 15 cm, and put 2-3 Tbs of spiced fish in center.
4. Add chilies, tomatoes and sour fruits.
5. Wrap and secure with toothpicks and steam until done.
6. Grill over charcoal for some minutes to add more aroma (optional).
Makes 4 servings.
2. SAMBAL TERONG ASAM
Using a souring agent, the sambal does not include chilies for a pungent addition
INGREDIENTS:
100 g large shrimp, grilled, peeled, cut into 1 cm pieces
75 g terong asam, finely cut
3 shallots, 30 g
2 cloves of garlic, 10 g
« tsp salt or to taste
10 g gula Jawa (brown sugar)
5 g roasted trassi
METHOD:
1. Make a paste of shallots, garlic, salt, brown sugar and trassi.
2. Add shrimp and terong asam. Mix well.
Makes 3-4 servings.
3. SANGGAR SARI KAYA
A banana pudding from Samarinda
INGREDIENTS:
8 bananas (pisang kepok)
100 ml thick coconut milk
2 hens‘ eggs, 100 g
50 g wheat flour, sifted
3 g salt or to taste
1 tsp banana essence (optional)
25 ml diluted brown sugar
1 tbs margarine or butter, for greasing, 20 g
200 ml cooking oil, for frying
METHOD:
1. Add banana into a blender, add coconut milk, egg, wheat flour, salt, banana essence and diluted brown sugar.
2. Take a suitable oven proof dish, grease with margarine or butter, arrange mashed bananas and put into a steamer for 20 minutes.
3. Take from steamer and cut into pieces when cold.
Makes 6 servings.
4. SANGA CABEK SALAI BAONG
INGREDIENTS:
1 kg ikan baong, cut finely
250 ml water, for boiling
1 tsp salt or to taste
300 ml cooking oil, for frying
4 shallots, finely sliced, 40 g
3 cloves garlic, finely sliced, 15 g
15 g red chilies, seeds discarded, finely sliced
1 tsp salt or to taste
3 tbs tamarind juice
10 g brown sugar
1 tsp roasted trassi
1 pineapple, finely cut, 300 g
METHOD:
1. Boil fish and salt until half done, take out of pot and drain
2. When cold, shred and fry until brownish.
3. Stir-fry shallots, garlic, red chilies, until aromatic with 3 tbs remaining oil.
4. Add fish. Season with salt, tamarind, brown sugar and trassi. Continue until dryish, add pineapple.
Makes 4 servings.
Source: www.thejakartapost.com (26 November 2007)
