London - The look of Jom Makan (`Let`s Eat`) is determinedly mid-market. Only rather odd staff uniforms, based on traditional Malaysian dress, give any indication of what kind of food is on offer.
Bright lampshades and curvy wood try to deliver warmth but high ceilings and hard surfaces fight it off.
However, this new outfit comes with a proper pedigree – it`s backed by the Malaysian government in an attempt to widen the popularity of the nation`s cuisine and produce. If the Thais and Chinese can do it.
The menu features all the gado-gado, nasi goreng and satay greatest hits, with more recherché stuff. It`s all cooked to order, fresh and occasionally superbly fiery, such as a `belachan` of chilli and dried anchovy.
Noodle dish mee goreng may look like an evacuee from an all-you-can-eat Chinese buffet but has depth of kicap (Malaysian soy) flavour and is packed with fat prawns, tender squid and crunchy vegetables. Lamb satay is smoky and good, and comes with excellent home-made peanut sauce.
The famous roti canai is glorious: sticky, buttery, flaky bread for dunking into a lovely lentil curry. The typical dog-food appearance of slow-cooked beef rendang belies its coconut-scented, melting loveliness.
Non-Malay staff are sunny, sweet and helpful, and the bill is kind. Downsides? Damp, puddingy rice cakes, horrible, screamy signs blighting Pall Mall East, and a truly diabolical website. Marina O`Loughlin.
Source: http://www.metro.co.uk (31 Juli 2008)
